Stage 131 Dec 2011 - |
Hot Rock South America 2012 |
Argentina |
Chile |
The expedition starts in cosmopolitan Santiago where we'll meet up with hot rockers from the previous expedition and share a leg with them - to make the most of patagonia's weather, the final leg of one trip is also the first leg of the next. We'll squeeze in a day bouldering on the beach at Zapallar, also the setting for the most unforgettable New Year's eve party - we're close to the date line so you'll be amongst the first people on the planet to welcome in new year 2012 - midsummer in this part of the world of course. |
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Ahead lies 95 days in Patagonia, at least two thirds of which will hopefully be in climbing destinations. How's that for a ratio? Las Chilcas is the local crag for Santiago, and as you can see from the picture it is high quality bolted conglomerate (with sharp vegetables growing under the crag to encourage you no to fall!) We've 3 days slated here, in a bush camp by the crag. |
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Las Chilcas, Santiago's local crag |
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A few hours south of Santiago lies the Cajon de Maipo, Chile's premier climbing destination with a wide mix of sport, trad, alpine and even some big wall opportunities. Maipo is a big area so we'll set up camp in striking distance of half a dozen crags. Those that want, can focus on redpointing hard sports routes near the camp. Others can grab their tents and head off on a multiday expedition... we'll have all the info on the truck. Rest days will be spent rafting the Rio Maipo which boasts 16km of whitewater, much of it in the 4/4+ category with carries on grade 5 terrain. Anyone want to paddle it? South America has many hardcore rivers; there's half a dozen on our schedule but could be many more. A hell of a place to perfect your paddling! |
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Sports climbing at the Cajon de maipo |
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Heading south on the pan american highway, we visit the Valle de los Condores, where 50 routes have recently been established by the active chilean scene, plus hopefully a few Hot Rock ones too, in a dramatic landscape where condors wheel overhead. The climbing is once again a mixture of trad, sport and boulders. A particular feature of south american climbing seems to be that bolted lines are common but splitter cracks are left for traddies. And as the dominant rock in south america is granite, that means lots of crack climbing! |
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Compact basalt in the Valle de los Condores |
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All this will seem like mere build up, however, for our next destination a day's drive south. Cochamo is a big granite wall that is often likened to a "big Yosemite" The features and lines are very similar, and those wanting multiday epics will not be dissatified. There are plenty of more amenable routes as well, many of them following the soaring cracks that split this enormous wall. We'll be here for ten days, which is time enough, for those that want, to head off to the coast and cruise the fjords hereabouts. These trips typically visit inaccessible spots where glaciers crumble to the sea amid seals and penguins - and you'll maybe even spot the odd whale out to sea. |
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Cochamo. Yosemite of South America. |
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After ten days in Cochamo, we drive across the argentine border to one of the top climbing destinations of the trip - Bariloche, home to Catedral de Frey, Valle Encatada and La Buitera. The climbing here is on granite and volcanic rock, meanng that there are profusions of soaring crack lines from 1-10 pitches, alongside plenty of sport routes (the local guidebook lists nearly 800 routes split between these three crags!) And as we'll be splitting 3 full weeks between these 3 destinations, this really is the place to perfect your crack climbing technique before the challenges to come... |
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Magnificent climbing at La Buitrera |
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Bariloche lies in the heart of the "Argentine Lake District" which again has world class trekking - some of it close to the world's biggest glacier - the Moreno (opposite.) So on rest days we will not go short! Treks range from a day to a week or more and take in much of the best landscape that Patagonia has to offer. There is also plenty of alpine climbing in this area, with some fairly accessible summits. We'll have the topos handy. To break up this otherwise long leg, Bariloche is also a possible start and end point, so if we needed an excuse for a party... |
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The Moreno, biggest glacier in the world |
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But frankly you won't want to leave Hot Rock in Bariloche as our next major climbing destination is one of the world's most famous wild places - Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre national park. The granite walls of these cathedral peaks soar for 1000m into the Patagonian sky, beckoning many of the very best climbers in the world. We'll have all the topos, not only for the major peaks but also for the many sport routes and endless bouldering around our base at El Chalten, plus some unforgettable trekking opportunities. If you have ambitions on any of the major lines get in touch with me in advance and I'll make sure you have potential partners. |
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Fitzroy & Cerro Torre National Park |
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We'll say farewell to the hot rockers from the previous trip, whose expedition ends at the southern tip of South America, where glaciers flow to the sea amid fur seals, penguins and the odd albatross. We'll spend this week exploring the wild national parks of Tierra del Fuego - the land of fire and ice. The climbing here is alpine and hardcore so most folk will probably prefer to trek - we'll have all the info on the truck of course for those that just can't get enough! |
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Monumental glaciers at Tierra del Fuego |
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And as we say farewell to those hot rockers from the previous trip, our thoughts will be directed northwards... from this point, at the most southerly tip of the continent, an extraordinary journey lies ahead, all the way to the warm waters of the carribean. First, however, there's the small matter of Barker to deal with... |
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Patagonian bushcamps rock! |
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One of the good thingsa about South America is that the good roads are really good. And straight. So unlike other continents, we can make really good distances every day. The next crag gives us a good incentive to motor on as well; after three long drive days north, Barker is probably the best developed crag in this part of Argentina with 125 bolted routes up to f7c. And there's plenty of other crags in the area, at Mar del Plata and Balcarce. We've 12 days slated here (including a mandatory beach trip in Mar del Plata, Argentina's answer to St Tropez.) We'll hook up with local climbers, maybe break out the drill and set some new routes, before heading north to Buenos Aires. |
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Over the past 95 days we've done a complete loop of Patagonia, cragging on top quality granite (and one or two other things besides, and seen some of the most spectacular landscapes in the world. Saying hello to some and farewell to others, we'll find the hot party spots of Buenos Aires, one of the most vibrant capitals in the world, before heading north onto the next stage. But that's another story... |
