Stage 19 Aug 2011 - 16 Sept 2011Quito - Lima |
Hot Rock South America 2011-12 |
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The expedition begins in downtown Quito. The Ecuadorian capital straddles the equator and we'll take the time to visit the equator monument before heading out of the city and into the jungle. Our first climbing destination is a small crag called Cuyuja. It's a pleasant bush camp and a great place to get to know each other and get used to travelling - hot rock style. Ecuador is famous for many things - it's volcanoes, thge galapagos islands... and of course its jungle. We'll spend 3 days in jungle camp, with the opportunity to go trekking in secondary rainforest, or rafting down some of the major paddling rivers in the area.
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Then it's on to Cotopaxi, 5897m, which has wiped out its neighbouring towns 3 times in the last century. At present, just a few smoking fumaroles are visible within the icy crater. It is Ecuador's most visited summit and together with Chimborazo, provides excellent and straightforward high altitude mountaineering and trekking. As usual, the costs of these peaks are not included because most people will prefer to trek or rock climb. But they are also fairly minimal - speak to me for more details.
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Inca fans will be able to explore Ingapirca, the best known ruins in Ecuador, or step back in time in Cuenca, site of the second city of the Inca empire (after Cuzco) en route to the climbing at Paute and El Cantilado de St Juan. El Acantilado de St Juan and Paute between them have over 100 recorded 1-3 pitch sport routes with a short walk ins on excellent volcanic rock. We have a week to split between these two destinations, though our mountaineers may already be gearing themselves up for another high summit - Chimborazo, Ecuador's second most popular volcano. And we'll have the benefit of the last expedition's reconnaissance as well - to make sure that we make the best cragging decisions all through the trip. |
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Moving south, we cross the border and stop one night on the beautiful beach at Punta Sal. Here the water is warm all year round, and the 3km sandy beach should be a great venue for our first night in Peru.
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Our first cragging destination in Peru is historic Cajamarca, where Pizarro ambushed and captured Atahualpa, the Inca emperor. Here, we head to the small limestone crag of El Chipche. Just 6 routes have been recorded here but as the picture shows, the potential is there for more so it'll be out with the drill as we help the Peruvians develop their crags. And of course, the last hot rock expedition will have spent time here, so we'll follow their routes with interest!
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Our next stop - for 11 days - is Huaraz, the major climbing base of Peru at the foot of the Cordillera Blanca. Alpinists will be able to go for Alpamayo and Huascaran, amongst many others.
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Or, for mere mortals there is plenty of valley cragging and bouldering around Huaraz itself - not to mention the trekking potential. Crags such as Monterrey and Chancos for lower grades, Antacocha in the mid range and Huanchac for boulderers will more than occupy us. Or how about 5 pitches of f6a-6b sport climbing up the 170m wall of Quebrada Llaca? Or 9 trad pitches at 5.11c on the Quebrada Ishinca? Or... The options in Huaraz are endless and 11 days will be gone in a flash!
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Big wallers will have their eyes set firmly on L'Esfinge (the Sphynx) - Peru's answer to Yosemite, and easily accessible from Huaraz. The easiest free line up L'Esfinge goes at a mighty 17-pitch 5.11b though it might well be possible to climb a few pitches than then abseil off. |
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Leaving Huaraz, we head to Lima, Peru's vibrant capital and the end of stage 1 of the expedition. We'll party hard, share some memories and some photographs, and then say farewell as some folk leave and others join us for the second stage of the expedition - the transcontinental trip to Rio. If you like what you've just read, check out the dates & prices and get in touch! |
