Stage 431 Dec 2011 -
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Hot Rock South America 2011 |
Argentina |
Chile |
Santiago is the start point for the final leg, and we'll now be looking forward to 75 days in Patagonia, of which 54 will hopefully be in climbing destinations. How's that for a ratio? We'll squeeze in a day bouldering at Zapallar, saying farewell to some and welcoming others. We'll also not forget to dip a toe in the waters of the Pacific Ocean here to conclude our coast-to coast drive from Rio. This will be the setting for the most unforgettable New Year's eve party - we're close to the date line so you'll be amongst the first people on the planet to welcome in new year 2012 - midsummer in this part of the world of course. |
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Las Chilcas is the local crag for Santiago, and as you can see from the picture it is bolted conglomerate... by all accounts pretty good (though once again we'll have the views of the first hot rock trip to go on by then as well.) We've 3 days slated here, in a bush camp by the crag. |
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Las Chilcas, Santiago's local crag |
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A few hours south of Santiago lies the Cajon de Maipo, Chile's premier climbing destination with a wide mix of sport, trad, alpine and even some big wall opportunities. Maipo is a big area so we'll set up camp in striking distance of half a dozen crags. Those that want, can focus on redpointing hard sports routes near the camp. Others can grab their tents and head off on a multiday expedition... we'll have all the info on the truck. Rest days will be spent rafting the Rio Maipo which boasts 16km of whitewater, much of it in the 4/4+ category with carries on grade 5 terrain. Anyone want to paddle it? South America has many hardcore rivers; there's half a dozen on our schedule but could be many more. A hell of a place to perfect your paddling! |
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Sports climbing at the Cajon de maipo |
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Heading south on the pan american highway, we visit the Valle de los Condores, where 50 routes have recently been established by the active chilean scene, plus hopefully a few Hot Rock ones too, in a dramatic landscape where condors wheel overhead. The climbing is once again a mixture of trad, sport and boulders. A particular feature of south american climbing seems to be that bolted lines are common but splitter cracks are left for traddies. And as the dominant rock in south america is granite, that means lots of crack climbing! |
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Compact basalt in the Valle de los Condores |
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All this will seem like mere build up, however, for our next destination a day's drive south. Cochamo is a big granite wall that is often likened to a "big Yosemite" The features and lines are very similar, and those wanting multiday epics will not be dissatified. There are plenty of more amenable routes as well, many of them following the soaring cracks that split this enormous wall. We'll be here for ten days, which is time enough, for those that want, to head off to the coast and cruise the fjords hereabouts. These trips typically visit inaccessible spots where glaciers crumble to the sea amid seals and penguins - and you'll maybe even spot the odd whale out to sea. |
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Cochamo. Yosemite of South America. |
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After ten days in Cochamo, we drive across the argentine border to one of the top climbing destinations of the trip - Bariloche, home to Catedral de Frey, Valle Encatada and La Buitera. The climbing here is on granite and volcanic rock, meanng that there are profusions of soaring crack lines from 1-10 pitches, alongside plenty of sport routes (the local guidebook lists nearly 800 routes split between these three crags!) And as we'll be splitting 3 full weeks between these 3 destinations, this really is the place to perfect your crack climbing technique before the challenges to come... |
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Magnificent climbing at La Buitrera |
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Bariloche lies in the heart of the "Argentine Lake District" which again has world class trekking - some of it close to the world's biggest glacier - the Moreno (opposite.) So on rest days we will not go short! Treks range from a day to a week or more and take in much of the best landscape that Patagonia has to offer. There is also plenty of alpine climbing in this area, with some fairly accessible summits. We'll have the topos handy. |
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The Moreno, biggest glacier in the world |
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Our final major climbing destination is one of the world's most famous wild places - Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre national park. The granite walls of these cathedral peaks soar for 1000m into the Patagonian sky, beckoning many of the very best climbers in the world. We'll have all the topos, not only for the major peaks but also for the many sport routes and endless bouldering around our base at El Chalten, plus some unforgettable trekking opportunities. If you have ambitions on any of the major lines get in touch with me in advance and I'll make sure you have potential partners. |
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Fitzroy & Cerro Torre National Park |
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The expedition ends at the southern tip of South America, where glaciers flow to the sea amid fur seals, penguins and the odd albatross. We'll spend the final week of the expedition exploring the wild national parks of Tierra del Fuego - the land of fire and ice. The climbing here is alpine and hardcore so most folk will probably prefer to trek - we'll have all the info on the truck of course for those that just can't get enough! |
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Monumental glaciers at Tierra del Fuego |
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We will have climbed virtually every developed piece of rock along our route; we'll have bouldered, scrambled, climbed and mountaineered our way from the southernmost tip of south america to the equator by way of both oceans! What a place to celebrate. We'll party hard, share some memories and some photographs, and then say farewell as we go our separate ways. If you like what you've just read, check out the dates & prices and get in touch! |
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Patagonian bushcamps rock! |
