Stage 2 15 Mar 2011 -
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Hot Rock South America 2011
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Argentina |
Chile |
Brazil |
Leaving Santiago heading east, we first cross the spine of the Andes at Los Penitentes. This ski resort is also the jumping off point for Aconcagua expeditions. Aconcagua is one of the seven summits, and at 6994m (7000 if you believe the argentine hype) it is a serious mountain, despite its reputation. The Polish glacier (pictured) is the best route of ascent in the lower grades. We will not be stopping for long here but it is easy for anyone wanting to tick aconcagua to catch us up - speak to me. |
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After a day in Mendoza (where rafting the Rio Diamante may take second place to he best steak and wine in the world) the expedition heads to Capilla del Monte. 100 guidebooked routes await us, once again a mixture of sport and trad, and we'll spend 5 days here before heading to Cordoba, Argentina's second city. |
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For those needing to perfect their footwork, Cordoba is the cultural capital of Argentina, which means it is quite possibly the best place in the world to learn to tango. Argentina's national dance and hot rock's fancy dress box... a killer combination on the streets. (or on the roof of Birt... come on!) Now with perfect footwork, and maybe a sore head, we'll head off to La Ola to test it out... |
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La Ola is one of the best known crags in Argentina, and together with Los Gigantes (its sister crag) it boasts 250 routes, sport and trad on roadside granite. Enjoy the granite during our 5 days here; it's the last you'll see for a while as now the expedition heads further east, to the sandstone and samba rhythms of Brazil. |
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Brazilian climbing is really all about Rio, and we'll spend a full fortnight in this vibrant city, a dead cert highlight of the expedition. Climbing in Rio is in Urca, on the sugar loaf, even on the Cristo Redentor... it's everywhere. And there's usually a cable car down as well! The sandstone is reputedly solid and of course, the entire area is extensively guidebooked so you can be sure that the main lines are well travelled.
Rio is not an official changeover point but of course it is easy to fly here and join or leave the expedition. |
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We'll be based in Rio itself for 2 weeks. Non climbing days can be spent on Copacabana or Ipanema beaches. You could watch street footie being played in the spiritual home of the beautiful game, taking a tour into the amazon or endless other activities. Not to mention the infamous nightlife... |
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Carnival! South America is famous for its fiestas, every town has its own celebrations throughout the year. Though we miss the Rio Carnival as it's completely the wrong season for climbing (how thoughtless of them) we will aim to hit other fiestas in towns throughout the trip. It's a private aim to get the truck involved as a float for one of these processions and see what the local reaction is! |
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Rio is just one of 4 climbing destinations in Brazil though, as we drive the loop from Cordoba. Morro do Carno, Pedro bo Bau and Cuscuzeiro all have highly rated climbing on 1-3 pitch sandstone in rural surroundings and we'll split 11 days between these destinations.
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But no trip to South america would be complete without spending a day or two being soaked at the incredible Iguacu falls. Situated on the boundary of Brazil, Argentina and Paraguay, the spectacle is reckoned to outdo even Victoria and Niagara. There's no climbing here as it'd be - well, damp! But a couple of days to let shredded tips regrow will be welcome before we return to Argentina, to Cordoba, to the end of another section and to the aptly named Los Gigantes. |
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Our base in Cordoba will be Los Gigantes. For some, this will be their final south american crag. For others it'll be their first. For everyone it'll be a highlight with established routes, easy access and a good grade spread. At the end of this 57-day section, we'll have climbed for up to 35 days. We'll have cossed south america from west to east and back in 15 drive days. We'll have experienced the Andes and the Amazon - and riotous Rio. And now we'll point the truck north, back to the Andes and our first climbing destination in the vast expanses of the Atacama desert. |
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