Stage 130 Dec 2010 -
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Hot Rock South America 2011
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Argentina |
Chile |
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The expedition starts at the southern tip of South America, where glaciers flow to the sea amid fur seals, penguins and the odd albatross. This will be the setting for the most unforgettable New Year's eve party - we're close to the date line so you'll be amongst the first people on the planet to welcome in new year 2011 - midsummer in this part of the world of course. We'll spend a week getting to know each other and exploring the wild national parks of Tierra del Fuego - the land of fire and ice. The climbing here is alpine and hardcore - we'll have all the info on the truck of course for those that can't wait to break their crampons out. |
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Our first major climbing destination is one of the world's most famous wild places - Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre national park. The granite walls of these cathedral peaks soar for 1000m into the Patagonian sky, beckoning many of the very best climbers in the world. We'll have all the topos, not only for the major peaks but also for the many sport routes and endless bouldering around our base at El Chalten, plus some unforgettable trekking opportunities. If you have ambitions on any of the major lines get in touch with me in advance and I'll make sure you have potential partners. |
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After ten days in Fitz Roy we drive 2 days north, to one of the top climbing destinations of the trip - Bariloche, home to Catedral de Frey, Valle Encatada and La Buitera. The climbing here is on granite and volcanic rock, meanng that there are profusions of soaring crack lines from 1-10 pitches, alongside plenty of sport routes (the local guidebook lists nearly 800 routes split between these three crags!) And as we'll be splitting 3 full weeks between these 3 destinations, this really is the place to perfect your crack climbing technique before the challenges to come...
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Bariloche lies in the heart of the "Argentine Lake District" which again has world class trekking - some of it close to the world's biggest glacier - the Moreno (opposite.) So on rest days we will not go short! Treks range from a day to a week or more and take in much of the best landscape that Patagonia has to offer. There is also plenty of alpine climbing in this area, with some fairly accessible summits. We'll have the topos handy. |
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All this will seem like mere build up, however, for our next destination just across the border in Chile. Cochamo is a big granite wall that is often likened to a "big Yosemite" The features and lines are very similar, and those wanting multiday epics will not be dissatified. There are plenty of more amenable routes as well, many of them following the soaring cracks that split this enormous wall. We'll be here for ten days, which is time enough, for those that want, to head off to the coast and cruise the fjords hereabouts. These trips typically visit inaccessible spots where glaciers crumble to the sea amid seals and penguins - and you'll maybe even spot the odd whale out to sea. |
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Heading North on the pan american highway, we visit the mighty Valle de los Condores, where 50 routes have been established by the active chilean scene, in a dramatic landscape where condors wheel overhead. The climbing is once again a mixture of trad, sport and boulders. A particular feature of south american climbing seems to be that bolted lines are common but splitter cracks are left for traddies. And as the dominant rock in south america is granite, that means lots of crack climbing! We'll split 10 days climbing between Valle de los Condores and the next destination: the Cajon de Maipo. |
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A few hours north of Condores lies the Cajon de Maipo, where 50 routes have been established on volcanic rock. Rest days will be spent rafting the Rio Maipo which boasts 16km of whitewater, much of it in the 4/4+ category with carries on grade 5 terrain. Anyone want to paddle it? South America has many hardcore rivers; there's half a dozen on our schedule but could be many more. A hell of a place to perfect your paddling! |
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By this stage we'll have spent 75 days in Patagonia, of which 54 will hopefully have been in climbing destinations. How's that for a ratio? But now it's time to head to beautiful Santiago, capital of Chile and the first change over point. We'll squeeze in a day on the beach in Vina del Mar, saying farewell to some and welcoming others. We'll dip a toe in the waters of the Pacific Ocean here; the next time we see the sea will be from Copacabana beach in Rio - and this time it'll be the Atlantic! |
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