July '08

Hot Rock: Climbing in Pakistan

Wanting to join us but worried about Pakistan? Click here

From the small border town, we enter Pakistan and the tribal lands of Baluchistan and head to the desert city of Quetta, with its Pashtun villagers, colourful markets and many different tribal dresses and identities. We will spend a day in Quetta perhaps exploring the bazaar, a vibrant hive of activity selling everything from carpets and kebabs to AK 47s.

Continuing from Quetta we will drive North to Peshawar, at the Eastern end of the infamous Khyber Pass into Afghanistan, and then to Gilgit on our way to the Hunza Valley, our climbing destination in Pakistan.

We’re likely to get seduced by any one of the myriad of rocky walls hereabouts, but our ultimate objective is Ultar Meadows, a pleasant camping spot below the mighty 7000m peaks of Ultar I, II and III, and the rocky spire of Mount Lady Finger. The valley has endless rock awaiting ascents of all grades, and the nearest town, Karimabad, gets top marks from travelers for the warmth of its welcome. We will spend enough time here to notch up a good few routes, whether they are on the valley boulders or on the numerous big faces scattered hereabouts.

Alternatively, for those that want to, there may be the time to head along the Hispar – Biafo glacier systems. Passing the huge walls of the Ogre, Nameless Spire and Latok, there is the opportunity to trek to K2 base camp to see this spectacular mountain for yourself.

For rock other than the main big walls (often with expensive peak fees, permits and liaison officers) there are endless granite walls down every side valley in the Karakoram. Mostly untouched, these 100-500m sheets of granite await new routes. In areas like this there are simply tons of boulders, crags and walls. They are almost always overlooked, however, as climbers and magazines tend to focus on the huge peaks and spires that dominate above.

With our heads hopefully crammed full of big wall climbing adventures, we now head to Lahore and another possible start or finish point. Lahore’s fantastic mogul architecture rivals that of Agra and even the Taj Mahal. Spending some time in the city exploring the forts we may stumble into one of the many festivals that enliven the streets or, if we’re lucky, catch a tribal polo match before we carry on to India. It is here we leave the Karakoram branch of the silk route at the furthest extent of Alexander the Great’s campaign to subdue the subcontinent. We also leave the Arabic culture and graceful world of Islam through which the first stage of our journey has traveled.

 

 

 

 

 

We're monitoring the political situation in Iran & Pakistan very carefully, as you can imagine. There are a series of options open to us depending on where the Foreign & Commonwealth Office advises against travelling to (currently just small areas of both countries.) Our main climbing areas are currently all unaffected.

If you're concerned, give me a ring and I can talk you through the options in more detail. Back to top


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Detailed Information

a typical day

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