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Here, we’ll head north, entering Zimbabwe at Victoria Falls, one of the natural wonders of the world. They are known locally as 'Mosi-oa-tunya', which means 'the smoke that thunders', and it really does.
The noise is incredible, and the spray is visible miles above the savannah. 1.7km wide and dropping 107m into the Zambezi gorge, Vic Falls was first discovered by Livingstone in 1865.
We will spend a while in the central campsite in the small town of Victoria Falls, and there is lots to do in this adrenaline junkie's paradise. With some of the world's best rafting and river boarding, it's time to get wet paddling the big grade 5 rapids that the Zambezi is famous for.
Then there is the 111 m Bungee jump off Victoria Falls bridge, where you'll dive through the rainbow produced by the spray.
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If that's not enough you can start a skydiving course, go game viewing on horseback, go to crocodile farms and lion sanctuaries, or spend some time relaxing on a sunset cruise on the upper Zambezi.
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There will be few delays in Bulawayo before we head out to stay near a game lodge in Rhodes Matopos National Park. The park and surroundings are full of eroded boulders balanced unstably on top of each other. The guidebook says: "The formations appear as if some young deity has been playing with thousand tonne building blocks, stacking them precariously into fanciful castles and towering imaginary cities." We will climb carefully here, because the white rhino that live in the park are not known for their tolerance of climbers. Alternatively, people may want to head straight for the next crag, Sebakwe Poort. This is my favourite climbing area in Zimbabwe, situated, as it is, in a stunning ironstone gorge. The 3-4 pitch crag towers impressively above a lush, green tropical river. Watching African chamois bounding around and spending some time croc-spotting provides the rest-day entertainment here. The bush camp we use is beautifully remote, and the climbing is on solid (if sometimes a little vegetated) ironstone. The routes range from the pleasant 'Tombstone' (150m VDiff (5.4)) to some imposing 180m E2s (5.11) on the main face. As ever in Africa, there is plenty of scope for putting up new routes and one diagonal line in particular that is begging to be climbed (you'll know it when you see it.) Descents through the vertical bushveld can be challenging, and it will be time to learn bush-bashing techniques in preparation for future crags (a skill everyone learns the hard way, with blood, sweat and tears). |
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After Sebakwe Poort, if people want to, we can head off to visit the Great Zimbabwe ruins, the most impressive ruins south of the Sahara. This great stone city built from the 11th century onwards lies across a boulder strewn hill complex. The enclosures and towers constructed of granite blocks are of tremendous historic importance. We can spend a day in the campsite to boulder and explore the ruins.
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Then we will make our way to Harare, the very pleasant capital city, where we will make use of the showers, and then go for out for that beer and steak we've been looking forward to during those days spent camping in the bush. We may even catch a movie… .
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We’ll also get transit visas for Mozambique, welcome some new faces and say farewell to old friends. Here, we stay in a campsite that is aptly named 'The Rocks'. Wayne and Sparky's campsite is surrounded by many 2-10m boulders, which makes it perhaps the ultimate campsite for lazy climbers. The bouldering is outstanding, and we have previously put up over 30 quality boulder problems, which once formed the basis for a Hot Rock bouldering competition in the friendly campsite for a day.
There is other climbing near the city, and we will try to meet up with some Zim climbers in a quarry that they have developed for some climbing and a BBQ.
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When not climbing we can enjoy Harare, which has cinemas and some great nightlife, real African drum clubs and good restaurants. Once again we will have a last night meal and party for the people that are leaving and others that are joining. |
We will arrange a day at an excellent climbing area to the north of the city called Ngoma-Kurira. There are perhaps 90 bolted routes, both single and multi pitch, on lovely solid granite that is punctuated by the odd pocket of some conglomerate-type rock. The views are lovely, the climbing excellent, and it is definitely worth a visit for a very relaxing day of bolt clipping.
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From Harare eastwards to the Mozambique border we are confronted by vast amounts of rock. From the truck we will see huge granite domes, low crags and boulders stretching into the distance for as far as the eye can see. We will spend a week or more on this 100km section of road. The first destination along the road is Shamu, which has been fairly well developed by the rock climbers in Zimbabwe (all 30 of them), and has also received a few visitors from overseas, including Chris Sharma.
With about 70 routes from VDiff-E4 on the slabs and steep crack systems, and the potential for many more new sport and trad routes, we won't get bored. Pick of the bunch in the lower grades is probably Moonwalk at HVS 5a. Climbing above the grass huts next to which we'll camp - it's a truly memorable African bush experience.
Mount Dema, our next destination, is one of many 120m-high domes in the area with immaculate granite walls and cracks. Previous Hot Rock trips have established more than 15 routes from VS to E4. These include a spectacular 115m bolted line that takes a featured wall and goes at f7a, and 4-pitch "Zigzag" HVS 5a which takes a Yosemite-style crack line from bottom to top, finishing through a cave!
Repeating these routes and adding many more will keep us entertained for a good few days. We will camp just outside a village, and experience the overwhelming hospitality of the Zimbabwean people, as they bring us their locally brewed beer, and sit with us to watch the setting sun.
Mount Dema is just one of myriad domes in the area. According to the preferences of the truck, we may set our sights elsewhere and explore the new routeing potential in any one of dozens of alternative targets before jumping back in Birt for the double border crossing into Mozambique and Malawi.
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