This stage has already ended |
Hot Rock in Tanzania |
 |
 |
Now we drive North, entering Tanzania through Baobab valley where there are some good bush camps and an undeveloped bouldering venue that looks like it would rival Font or Castle Hill if it wasn't in one of the most spectacularly isolated parts of the world. We'll take the time to see if we agree with the last Hot Rock expedition’s assessment of just how good it is before we continue to Dar es Salaam, Zanzibar, and the Indian Ocean.
Time
to celebrate the fact we have successfully crossed Africa from one coast to
another.
Of
course, Tanzania is world renowned for being the home of Kilimanjaro, Africa's
highest mountain (any budding seven summiteers?) But did you know that it
was originally located in Kenya? In a fabulously colonial act, the mountain
was given by Queen 
Victoria
of England to her cousin, so the international border was moved to accommodate
Kili within German Tanganyika (Tanzania.) Kili is not on the main schedule
because the cost of climbing it would add significantly to the overall trip
cost. But if anybody would like we can arrange the 5-6 day trek up to the
summit, drop you off and pick you up afterwards.
For everybody else, mystical Zanzibar is now firmly on the radar.
From
the Silver sands campsite in Dar es Salaam we will take the ferry to the ancient
sultanate island of Zanzibar, hopefully avoiding a repeat of the sea rescue
we had to undertake last time, having struck & sunk a fishing dhow! The
Lonely Planet describes Zanzibar as... "The annals read like a chapter
from “The thousand and one nights” and doubtless evoke many exotic
and erotic images in the mind of the traveller. Zanzibar has lured travellers
to its shores for centuries, some in search of trade, some in search of plunder,
and some in search of an idyllic home." Hopefully we will not be going
in search of plunder and will spend a few pleasant days there!
There
is lots to do and see, in and around the Old Stone Town with its narrow winding
streets, crumbling forts and elegant seafront gardens. With spectacular beaches
and some class A diving and snorkelling, many people just stick to the beach.
However the interior and its history as the spice island has much to offer.
The Cafe Africa is definitely the place to congregate for sunset, as the Arab
dhows sail past and dolphins play in the harbour.
Zanzibar also happens to be one of the most photogenic bouldering spots on
the entire trip. The sharp shelly rock is submerged at high tide and provides
several kilometres of amusing 45-degree problems, frequently ending in a bar
or cafe terrace. Further along the beach you can hire kayaks, dinghies and
there’s even a racing catamaran for the nautically minded.
As Dave said on his last visit: “An island smothered in coconut palms
and banana trees. It only has one beach, this just happens to go around the
entire perimeter of this idyllic haven. Driving on hired scooters from one
end to the other takes about three hours. The northern end coast is walled
by a 15 foot overhanging massively featured cliff above a soft white sand
landing. Perfect for bouldering when the sun is cooler. That is of course
if you really can’t get enough of tearing skin of your fingertips. I
decided to take the other option...
|
|
|
zanzibar gallery |
The boat looked old, the captain appeared to not have a clue and there was
not one dolphin in sight. We continued to chug out off the southern tip of
the island. In case it really was to be a fleeting glimpse I donned my fins,
mask and snorkel to be ready to get my look at one. Still no dolphin felt
a bit daft so took the mask and snorkel off. Suddenly the captain pointed.
"There,
see the grey fin". Grabed my mask shoved it over my face and leapt in.
The mask fell off and I swallowed a good portion of the sea. Recomposed I
dived down.........Wow. There were about 10 dolphins swimming around curious
to see what ungamely fools have jumped in this time for them to laugh at.
The
visibility was crystal and experience of swimming with the dolphins was incredible.
After a couple of hours the dolphins had had all the laughs they wanted and
had swam off out of sight. We retuned to the beach for lunch. Some grilled
fish and coconut sauce provided by the captain started off my hunger. I went
in search for more. I managed to buy two octopus from a fisherman that we
baked on a fire, collecting a few coconuts for a drink of the milk finished
the meal well. This truly is paradise.”
Leaving
paradise, we'll trundle across the Rift valley to Arusha, possibly via the
stunning sulphurous crater of Ol Doinyo Lengai, largest active volcano in
the Rift Valley. Or we may continue Hot Rock’s exploration of “Little
Switzerland”, a range of limestone cliffs close to the road as we head
north.
Arusha lies beneath the shadow of Kilimanjaro and is one of the major towns of Tanzania, where we'll be staying at the aptly named Snake Park. Here, reunited with our Kili summitteers, we’ll ask ma for a round of Hot Rock Hurlers but won't try to top the leaderboard. I’ll say no more ....
Here, beside both the Serengeti and Ngorogoro, we may take the opportunity for some exceptional animal viewing. The annual Serengeti migrations are probably the most filmed and famous wildlife spectacle on Earth and we have the opportunity for a very special day indeed - a day's safari through Ngorogoro crater. This 250 square kilometre caldera houses over 30,000 large mammals - the densest population on earth.
 |
 |
 |
The Maasai have ancestral grazing rights within the crater, and it is awe
inspiring to see a pride of lions slink off at the distant sight (& smell)
of a tall Maasai, still bearing his traditional spear. Indeed, the very name
Ngorogoro comes from the sound of the bells worn into battle, said to have
terrified all enemies into submission. Unquestionably, this day will be etched
forever into your memory.
Leaving Arusha we’ll head North stopping briefly at the magnificent 400m cliffs of Longido, before we enter Kenya, one of the true country highlights of the trip.
